Its all about attention to detail (and looking good)
In the interests of honesty it should be admitted that, at the time of writing, the wheels used for instruction here have not yet been ridden. They may still explode with such force as to be seen from space, fizzle out with a louche expulsion of flatus, or work fantastically.
These wheels have now been fully field-tested. By field-testing I was willing launched over a ditch and into a field. The setup worked great.
Stan’s No Tubes have a great video on this topic, before before you are given the link, one word of warning. Their video is by the inventor of the products involved and is made in mechanic’s nirvana. It is not the grotty, dusty garden where everyone else does this kind of thing. The instructions below are for the rest of us. Here’s the link: Stan’s video.
You will need:
Nice sanding job. Thanks.
Step 1
Get your old wheels. Take off the old technology tires (clinchers to the uninitiated), tubes and rim tape. Carefully sand the spoke holes and valve hole inside the rim. Finish this step by thoroughly cleaning this area with the baby wipes. Any dust, filings or grease which remain will render the next step useless.
Pull it tight
Step 2
The Stan’s rim tape is very light and very strong. Cleanly cut the end of it and affix to the inside of the rim between two spoke holes. Start to pull it tight, down and away from where you started, following the direction the wheel is pointing. To seat it in cleanly it is best to jiggle the tape slightly from side to side as you go. This takes some force. Smooth the tape down as you progress with a cloth, pressing out any air bubbles (which of course, there won’t be because you have been conscientiously taking your time…).
Stick it in (tee hee)
Step 3
Find the valve hole and using a sharp blade cut a clean cross in the tape here. Stick your valve through with the tightening nut off. When its through, put the nut back on and fasten as tight as you can.
Step 4
Got plastic tire levers? Get yourself an old spoon – tubeless tires are tight fitting, really tight fitting. Now mount those tires. There is no way around this – it will be a bastard of a job. Certain tire/rim combinations are more forgiving, but Murphy’s Law clearly states that those are the ones you don’t have.
Step 5
Time to do a test inflate. This will give the tire shape and help you identify any issues. But before you inflate you must absolutely smother the rim and tire with bubbles from soapy water.This lubrication allows these surfaces to abut more cleanly without allowing leaks. Apparently its essential. Hang the wheel from this point on as any pressure on the tire will interrupt the seal or push sealant back out. As shown in the image, a workstand is frivolous when it comes to hanging wheels.
The Inquisition’s track pump was fine for his although it is common to require a strong rush of pressure, necessitating a CO2 inflator.
Ah for the love of ****! What the **** is wrong with this ****ing ****?
Step 6
Is it all good? Well, The Inquisition’s tires weren’t. All around the sidewall of one tire, and running parallel to the rim about 5mm in, little bubbles were being blown through the tire’s surface. Not good. This is where, so far, Stan’s has been invaluable.
Any air escaping around the valve, tire or spoke holes will be seen as it blows lovely bubbles. Jiggle things around and add pressure to curb these leaks.
The Gunk
Let the air back out, and remove the valve’s core. Now, that bottle of Stan’s sealant comes with an alternate top/funnel thingy. Use that to squeeze in 2oz of sealant, making sure to shake it well first. To be honest 2oz are a frightening concept to the metrically European mind but due to markings on the bottle it is possible to make it through without major diplomatic incidents.
Post gunk re-inflation
Step 7
Put the valve core back in. Shake the wheel and hang it back up. Re-soap the wheel and inflate it.
Affectionately known as the "Ridley Rocket" or not.
Step 8
Admire your new tubeless “whip” before it deflates. You are on your own then. You got yourself into this mess…
Ah no, it’ll be fine. Honest.
This article was posted by Ronan McDonnell on
Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010 at
05:31.
It is archived in Bicycles and tagged bicycle, fusion 3, hutchinson, tires, tubeless, tyres.
If you enjoyed this article, please help The Inquisition grow by sharing it.
Pingback: Road Tubless Conversion
Hi,
Probably the best explaination i’ve read to date.
Thanks, now i know i can try it on my clinchers, i will buy the system.
Thanks for the write-up!
I would advise to skip the baby wipes, though. They can leave an oily residue that defeats the purpose of the cleaning. Use acetone or brake cleaner instead. Also, I’d be careful about sanding too much. You just want to take off any large burrs that will cut the tape under high pressure. If you sand off the annodization over large areas, the Stans sealant will attack the aluminum more readily there.
You need to be a part of a contest for one of the best sites on the web. I’m going to recommend this web site!
how’d this work out for you – I’m curious, I wanna try it but don’t have the guts…….