Plitvice

In 2002 The Inquisition went to Croatia and visited the Plitvice Unesco World Heritage site. This was ten years after the Croatian War of Independence and Freedom began in this area, with an armed confrontation between armed Croat and Serb forces. Plitvice is, however, much better known for its history as a tourist destination and has long enjoyed a protected status.

The journey there, by bus from Zagreb, went through beautiful countryside, some areas of which were still mined at the time. Towns in those parts of Croatia still bore visible scars from the war. Although there was no tangible military presence, their legacy was still evident through smashed buildings and vacant homes. Indeed, the park itself was designated in 1998 as a de-mining priority by the newly formed Croatian government who recognised its economic importance.

Arrival in Plitvice was a distinct departure from the surrounding areas. The lodgings were in a heavily forested, remote area and were at a remove from the lakes themselves. Nestled among the trees these hotels were giant concrete and glass cubes. This Eastern-European Cold-War era architecture was stunning and although at odds with its surroundings never took away from the natural beauty of the area. Minimalist details abounded – Eileen Gray tables in the reception, every room had a balcony, entire buildings teetered on stilts. Dinner was served in a colossal dining hall festooned with heroic mosaics.

The Lakes

From the hotel a dusty track led down to the lakeside and the forestry commission entrance. From first sight the lakes shimmer a bright turquoise. The walk traipses between upper and lower lakes below dolomite cliffs which resiliently withstand the battering of the many waterfalls. The area teems with wildlife – fish swarm around the boats which ferry walkers around the park, eagles soar above, bushes rustle with lizards, fish swim across ponds and the area even has populations of larger mammals including European brown bears, wolves, and lynx.

Visitors make their way around the forest park on raised wooden platforms which protect the areas beauty. These platforms carry you up the front of cliffs as waterfalls crash down beside you, they take you through forest that have grown up amidst torrents and channels of water. For greater distances walkers are ferried across the lakes in peacefully slow, chugging ferries.

Although this all sounds too wonderful to be true, and, in all probability, like a marketing presentation by Croatian Tourism, Plitvice is genuinely an oasis of absolute calm.

Bibliography

Plitvice Lakes Official Site

Area Map

This article was posted by Ronan McDonnell on Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 at 18:27.
It is archived in Travel, Wild Places and tagged Beauty, Croatia, Travel, Wild Places, wildlife.

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